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One of my very most prized travel souvenirs is a vintage kilim, about 75 years old, which I bought more than a decade ago in the otherworldly medina of Fez, Morocco – with its black-and-yellow zigzag motif, it evokes exoticism and the quintessence of travel whenever I look at it. I’m instantly transported back into that world of mint tea and mysterious narrow byways, the tannery where I watched young boys dying leather for shoes and Ottomans, the rooftop restaurant where I first tried tagines and pigeon, and the bathhouse where I found myself being vigorously pummeled by a wiry Moroccan masseur.

So what exactly are kilims and how are they different from carpets? Well, they’re also made of wool, but in many ways are closer to tapestries – flatter, lighter, more tightly woven, and less durable than carpets, with no pile to speak of.   All the above add up to one key reason kilims also tend to be less expensive than most rugs – another is that they have traditionally been a homespun village craft, made for locals instead of the tourist or export market as increasingly became the case with rugs.

Having said that, over the years I’ve spotted quite a few gorgeous, skillfully crafted, even quite sophisticated kilims in several countries, and in various countries, more of them have been made for export than they used to be – and some command prices into the thousands of dollars or pounds. The word “kilim” itself is Turkish, derived from the Persian gelim, but in addition to Turkey and Iran they can be found throughout North Africa, the Middle East, Central Asia, the Caucasus, and the Balkans – so if you ever find yourself at one of the Iberostar resorts in Turkey, Morocco, Tunisia, Montenegro, or Bulgaria, you may well come across local examples while browsing in local markets or shops.  Many will be relative bargains, and I can assure you from personal experience they will look marvelously striking whether hanging on your wall or laying on your floor.

Photo | Stephan Geyer

  If you ever find yourself at one of the Iberostar resorts in Turkey, Morocco, Tunisia, Montenegro, or Bulgaria, search for your gorgeous, skillfully crafted and sophisticated kilims!

Destroyed buildings around Gallipoli

Gallipoli The Movie

Ask most Americans to think of famous actors in a war movie and their thought will immediately turn to Tom Hanks in Saving Private Ryan or Ben Affleck in Pearl Harbor. Ask the same question to the average Australian and they will be almost unanimous in naming Mel Gibson for his role as Frank Dunne in the classic movie Gallipoli. Indeed despite the movies Mel Gibson had starred in before the release of Gallipoli, many consider this to be the film that made him an A list star.

The 1981 film by Peter Weir is set against the backdrop of the Gallipoli campaign of 1915, in which around 100,000 men were killed including many from Australia and New Zealand. The sacrifice of those involved in the terror of the Turkish trenches is commemorated each day on April 25th, known across Australia and New Zealand as ANZAC Day.

From Innocence to War

The story begins in western Australia and centres on two young men and how they went to war. Archie is an innocent young man who is greatly influenced by his uncle’s reading of the Jungle Book. He decides that just as it was time for Mowgli to leave the wolves who raised him and make his own way in the big bad world, so he too needed to become a man and fight in the military. He meets Frank at an athletics carnival and they travel together to Perth to enlist for military service.

Their journey takes them through exotic Cairo where the young men live it up in the bars and brothels of the city before being dispatched to the hellish scenes of Gallipoli in Turkey. The scenes vividly portray the brutality of trench warfare, with the two men fighting desperately for the Allies while seeing death and destruction pile up around them.

Ironically none of the scenes were shot in Turkey, with all of the battle sequences carefully recreated in South Australia. Only the scenes at the Pyramids and in the bazaars were filmed in Egypt.

Go to Turkey today and you’ll find that the battlefields at Gallipolli provide a sombre but highly recommended visit for those wishing to learn more about the history of the bloody battle fought here almost 100 years ago. From Antalya resort and all along the holiday coast you’ll find excursions that take visitors to the scenes of the 1915 battle and allow them to pay their respects to the fallen and get a glimpse of how difficult life would have been for the troops in 1915.

The trenches have long gone but the sacrifices made by the young men in battle make this a hugely important places to visit for those whose ancestors fought and paid the ultimate price.

Photo:  By NA (Turkish General Staff)

I would be biased to say that Turkey is one of the most diverse and attractive countries in the world, but those who’ve visited the country would probably agree. Of the countless times I’d traveled to Turkey, I’d been blown away by its extremities: modern vs ancient, east vs west and concrete urbanity vs raw rural nature. Traveling from the hip metropolis of Istanbul to the traditional villages in Cappadocia to the vibrant beachfront city of Antalya, Turkey constantly sprang one surprise after another. I was deeply drawn to its intriguing whirlpool of culture, history and traditions.

But there was one man in particular who piqued my interest in Turkey. Wherever I went in the country, I saw portraits of him. A man who seemed to possess all the wisdom in the world and all the power in the country. He was Mustafa Atatürk, the founder of the Republic of Turkey – the most worshipped figure in the country.  Known for his  intelligence, resilience and generosity,  Atatürk was, and still is, deeply loved by his countrymen. Having fought the World War I as a military officer, he led the country towards independence and modernization after the fall of the Ottoman Empire. .

Without Atatürk, Turkey wouldn’t be where it is today: a global country that strikes a perfect balance between modern development and old cultural traditions. While keeping up with 21st-century development, Turkey has not forgotten its roots – it retains much of its rich history, which can be seen in various corners of the country. Impressive Roman ruins found in the ancient city of Esphesus and Aphrodisia show evidence of the country’s glorious days as an important centre of the Roman Empire; while Antalya‘s Fluted Minaret and Hidirlik Tower reveal a city that was once the capital of the Carabisiani Byzantine Empire. In Istanbul, its Ottoman history is on fully display through the majestic Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia.

But Turkey is very much of this century – major cities like Ankara, Izmir and Istanbul transport you straight to the present, where progressive vibes and up-to-date fashion remind you of Western European powerhouses. Stroll along the wide shopping boulevards, dine on stylish, rooftop restaurants  or just hang out in one of the numerous chic cafés, you’ll be surprised to find how multi-faceted Turkey really is.

Photo | Alaskan Dude

[What to do in Turkey] Midnight Express

After seeing “Midnight Express,” possibly the furthest thing from your mind is to take a pleasant stroll through Turkey, but don’t let an intense film like this 1978 crime drama discourage you from enjoying the experience of sightseeing in Turkey, where cultures meet in such a spectacular manner. Remember that Hollywood movies are made to leave an impact, and that not everything you see in them, even if it’s based on actual events, is necessarily that way.

Billy Hayes was arrested at the Istanbul airport because he had poorly chosen the, um, souvenirs he was going to take back to the US, but beforehand, he had the opportunity to appreciate its streets, its culture and everything else the capital of Turkey has to offer. The words Constantinople or Byzantium (as the city was once called) give you an idea of what you may expect in such a passion-filled destination. It’s no coincidence that the historic center has been declared a World Heritage Site since 1985, nor is it that you have seen its marvelous Christian church, the Hagia Sophia Cathedral, in your history books. Together with the Blue Mosque and others scattered around the city, these sights guarantee a rich cultural experience.

Beaches in Turkey: Sun, Fun & Culture

But Turkey has more to offer than its fabulous religious buildings; it also has some highly recommendable beaches. Beaches where Hayes could have swum prior to committing the wild crime that landed him as the protagonist of “Midnight Express.” Beaches that would have refreshed his mind before running the risk of trying to leave the country with a package of heroin, and that would have saved him both the years in that horrible jail and the need to escape to save any semblance of sanity.

Antalya is one of those destinations in Turkey where tourists can truly appreciate how much the country has changed over the last 40 years. Its beaches have always been there, as have the old Roman ruins, vestiges of Greek culture and numerous mosques. But now it also has five star resorts and restaurants for every price range that make this region one of the primary tourist destinations in this part of the Mediterranean coast.

You can’t get to Antalya by train, as you might get to Istanbul, but there are daily flights that you will not regret having taken. If you do, we would love to hear what you think.

Photo | Midnight Express (Sony Pictures, formerly Columbia Pictures)

 

What to do in Turkey

Light between East and West: The title may sound like a flight of poetic fancy, but in the case of Turkey, the words fit as precisely as any mathematical equation. ‘Light,’ for the beautiful sunsets that grace this country. And ‘between East and West’ because Turkey, spanning two continents and more than 2,000 years of history and culture (12,000, if you count the apparent discovery of the world’s oldest temple), is rich in contrasts thanks to its geographic location.

This bicontinental nation covers the entire peninsula of Anatolia in Asia and the southeastern portion of Thrace in Europe, separated by the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus and Dardanelles straits. Its grandest city, the lovely Istanbul, is among the best witnesses to the passage of time in world history: Here you can appreciate the influence of Greek conquests and the Byzantine Empire, which calls the city its birthplace. During that time, it was renamed Constantinople by Emperor Constantine the Great.

According to legend, though, the country reached the height of its splendor much earlier, during the reign of King Midas of Phrygia, part of what is today Turkey. Little by little, his territory spread eastward to the border of Urartu (today Armenia), Iran and Turkey, much like the nation’s current dimensions. Such was the wealth this king attained by maintaining trade relations with Assyria and Urartu, that the Greeks eventually adopted him into their mythology, so that today everyone knows this king for turning everything he touched to gold.

Istanbul Sightseeing Tips

If you travel to this grand European city, don’t miss the opportunity to wander its streets, visit its countless monuments and archeological ruins… and above all, don’t miss the famous dervishes and belly dancing. Who, after all, hasn’t dreamt of being able to move like those dancers?

Nor should you miss having a spot of tea in either the Üsküdar neighborhood, one of the oldest on the Asian side, in an outdoor café or on a small boat on the Bosphorus, overlooking the Galata Bridge which unites Europe and Asia, while contemplating one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. If you like to eat, in Turkey you will savor a cuisine that blends classic Mediterranean influences such as olive oil and vegetables with exotic Arab- and Indian-accented spices. The variety of Turkish cuisine is almost endless, so plan on sampling new delights every day.

Beaches in Turkey Not to Miss

Turkey’s beaches, unknown to most, offer fine white sand and crystal-clear emerald waters. The beach at Antalya in southwest Turkey is especially appealing thanks to the surrounding cliffs and mountains (don’t worry, there are good roads to get there!). After a day of sightseeing, Antalya’s crystal-clear waters and great variety of bars and restaurants will be all you’ll need to cool down and recharge.

For another must-see beach, head to the island of Kekova in the Aegean Sea. This island is also called the ‘sunken city,’ where you can explore the partially submerged marble columns and stone steps of the ancient city of Apollonia, which sank after a series of devastating earthquakes. In order to preserve this unique site, snorkeling and diving are currently prohibited, but you can see the spectacular ruins from a kayak or ferry.

Photo | Tare