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There are few sights in nature more dramatic and moving than that of a majestic leviathan of the seas (or better yet, a pod of them), and a number of areas around the world are known as great places to go spot them on their annual migrations. The Dominican Republic ranks high on that list, particularly the eastern stretch of its north shore called Samaná, a four-hour drive east from Iberostar Costa Dorada outside Puerto Plata and also reachable from its resorts in Punta Cana and Bayahibe

From mid-January to mid-March, thousands of humpback whales make their way from the North Atlantic down to the waters of the Silver Banks and Samaná Bay to calve and mate. From 20-foot calves to adults reaching up to 50-plus feet in length, these majestic marine mammals provide a fairly close-in offshore spectacle that has created and sustained a vigorous local whale-watching industry.

Amazing Aquatic Antics

And let me tell you, it ain’t just an occasional flipper, fin, and flip o’ the tail, but some dramatic antics indeed. Males breach up to their full lengths in attempts to attract females, and it’s probably the most spectacular biological sight I’ve ever had the honor to witness in person.

Tours range in scale and price from the simple (simple open fishing boats) to the cushy (80-passenger motorized craft with restrooms and other amenities). Top choices include Victoria Marine Samaná, Transporte Marítimo Minadiel, and Moto Marina. There are even a few operators, such as Conscious Breath Adventures, that will bring you out to swim, snorkel, and dive among these sensational cetaceans (save your pennies for that one, of course).

Photo | Boulderite

Puerto Plata, DR

Apart from Santo Domingo and its lovely colonial zone, in general the Dominican Republic is better known for its spectacular beaches than for its historic architecture – though over the years I’ve certainly come across some fetching examples scattered hither and yon. Happily for lovers of quaint and charming towns, San Felipe de Puerto Plata is an exception that proves the rule.

This city of around 200,000 up on the DR’s north coast, just a hop and a skip over from Playa Dorada, the zone where most Puerto Plata hotels and resorts are located and site of Iberostar Costa Dorada, dates back to the beginning of the 1500s (building on an original settlement established in 1494, a mere two years after Columbus sailed the ocean blue). As the island of Hispaniola’s main port, it was a target for both military and pirate attacks, so that’s why it sports a fairly impressive fortress, the Fortaleza San Felipe. Here you can visit a small colonial museum, ramparts, barracks, cells, and other fort-y stuff – and that pretty much does it for colonial history hereabouts.

What to Do in Puerto Plata

Cool as the fortress is, for me what’s most charming and unique about Puerto Plata is its pastel-hued, gingerbread downtown, centered around Parque Luperón, aka Parque Central.  It’s all a relic of a post-colonial boom beginning in 1865, driven by immigration, sugar, and tobacco, and for me it pretty much defines Puerto Plata’s personality. Here you’ll find shops, restaurants, and the Museo del Ámbar, devoted to one of this area’s signature products, amber. While there are quite a few other attractions and activities to enjoy in this town (which I’ll be covering in future posts), it’s really the historic center that makes it a keeper.

By the way, a great time to visit is February and March, for the festivities, parades, and parties surrounding the pre-Lenten Carnaval held throughout the Catholic Caribbean.

Photo | http2007