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Vacations are like big holiday dinners: I want to enjoy a little bit of everything when I go and still have room for more. This mystery guest travels often, and I am not always the one making the arrangements. That doesn’t mean that I have to give up the experience of staying at an Iberostar Grand Hotel, even when I’m staying elsewhere, or have arrived via cruise ship for the day.

Like other Iberostar resorts, the Grand Hotel Paraiso on the Riviera Maya sells day passes (bracelets, actually) that allow me to experience the all-inclusive five-star treatment and amenities during the day or evening. It’s a no-brainer. I simply upgrade for the day. I love to spend my morning kayaking the teal waters by the hotel. Leisurely paddling, I enjoy the coral and marine life just below the water’s surface. When I’ve had enough sun, I take a break for a sumptuous lunch at the casual Beach Buffet Restaurant. My upgrade is about not having to make choices, but rather doing it all, and this buffet allows me to taste everything from Mayan delicacies to seafood so fresh that it looks like it was just plucked out of the ocean I just left.

After all of this overindulgence I want nothing more than to relax on the white sand private beach all afternoon. I could be taking a yoga class in the fitness center, but the service on the beach makes me feel so pampered that I dismiss the thought for the time being.

When it’s time to go, I keep thinking that I should have done an all-day upgrade (from 9:00 am until 3:00 am) because I don’t want to leave. Still, it was nice to upgrade for the day, and at $100 including my meals and drinks, it’s left me completely satisfied. Now if you happen to be traveling to the Riviera Maya this holiday season, and you’re not already staying at the Grand, wouldn’t a day pass make just about the perfect gift?

The Mayan Riviera, Mexico. The Caribbean sea, turquoise under the sun, white sands, ancient temples and reefs all along the coast. This was only part of the bliss that greeted me on a recent stay at the Paraíso Maya. Countless trips to view nature and history on and over land and sea. But, not too far away, sprawling for miles and miles and miles undergound is one of the most spectacular river cave systems you can encounter.

Rio Secreto’s Untouched Beauty

Once you have your wetsuit on and have been briefed on some intruiging history you are taken out in the nature reserve, amongst the wild trees you are led by the incredibly knowledgeable and environmentally aware guides underground into the cool darkness. These caves have never been fully commercialized, plus you are fully briefed on how to touch the very minimum on the way through. The result? You are met with a truly magical sight, right from the word go! The caves half-filled with the clearest water, the stalactites in a whole range of color hanging in such abundance above your head. Beauty for miles, literally.

A Journey Of Wonder

These caves and underground rivers go on for longer than you can think they do. For the time you enter the feeling of awe takes over you and a real sense of exploration begins. Sometimes squeezing to avoid contaminating the walls, sometimes ducking to avoid the stalactites, thousands of years old. Then, even more special, it is time to get into the water and float along slowly, at one with it all in the depth of silence and darkness but for the headtorch. You can spend hours down here and still want more. Mother Nature has given us sights and feelings that are hard to express, and sometimes you have to peek underground to experience it.

I’m a huge animal lover, and I’ve been writing about vacation resorts for a few years now. These two facts might at first seem like a non-sequitur, but on my recent visit to Iberostar’s five-resort Playa Paraíso complex on Mexico’s Mayan Riviera below Cancun, they came delightedly together.

Here not a day goes by where you won’t spot a charming critter with feathers, fins, or fur. Strolling from my room to dinner one evening at the Paraíso Maya, I came across a peacock calmly striding around the covered outdoor walkway (I was hoping he’d unfurl his tailfeathers for me, but no such luck).  One resort over, walking from the Paraíso Lindo lobby toward the huge theater, I spotted a gaggle of flamingos preening themselves near a spurting fountain in one of the many shallow pools, while small turtles swam beneath them. A bit farther along, there was a Mexican family whose two little boys were absolutely entranced by a pair of swans – one black and one white. Multihued parrots rest on perches in various spots, and sometimes staffers will take them around to introduce to guests; at another point I saw a couple of guys letting guests hold a large tame iguana. One local Mexican friend of mine commented to me at the time, “Well, some of these kids have grown up in the city and never actually laid eyes on these animals outside of pictures or TV before, so this is a real revelation for them.”

Boffo Bonus for Family Vacations

Indeed, having animals all over like this strikes me as a really nifty extra for families with kids, both for entertainment and educational value. If you’re lucky enough to be down here during the nesting season of the giant loggerhead and green sea turtles (late June and late August), you’re in for a special treat, as mama turtles first lay their eggs in the beach sand and the babies hatch and immediately start wriggling madly toward the ocean.

Perhaps the cutest (and certainly the most ubiquitous) varmint you’ll see on-property here are the coatimundis (aka coatis), frisky little members of the raccoon family with pointy snouts, twitchy noses, long tails, and bright button eyes (as if they didn’t already look like adorable stuffed animals, I found out that one name for them in English is “snookum bears” – just too precious!). These critters range from northern Mexico down through much of South America, but here on the Yucatan coast they’re a particular subspecies, called Cozumel Island coatis. They’re curious, fairly intelligent, and here quite tame around both kids and grownups. As I walked from one resort pool across a plank walkway to the beach, dozens of them scampered and capered on either side, a couple even climbing the railing and peering at me. The reason is, I’m quite sure, that despite the “do-not-feed-the-animals” signs, these guys score goodies from guests all the time; I even spotted one family with a bag of breadcrumbs just going to town.

Quite honestly, I can’t recall any other resort with quite the open animal presence of this Iberostar complex, and it truly added a charming extra dimension to the resort experience. Want to learn more? Here’s an interesting interview with in-house biologist Saúl Juan Solano, who oversees these resorts’ plant life as well as the animals.

Getting underwater is a passion of mine, so whenever I’m close to the ocean, I’ll eagerly strap on fins, snorkel, and mask and plunge in. That’s how on my recent visit to Iberostar’s five-resort Playa Paraíso complex south of Cancun I quickly found myself at the dive shop at one end of the long beach. Dressel Divers sends hundreds of guests per week out on its excursions to the offshore reef – the world’s second-longest after the Great Barrier Reef, stretching all the way down to Honduras’ Bay of Islands. It’s an operation exceptionally well run by a friendly group of guys and gals, headed up by Armando, 24, who hails from Spain’s Alicante province, in Andalusia.

After a morning of glorious snorkeling out on the reef (when the moment I hit the water I was surrounded by fearless schools of brilliantly colored fish), I got Armando to sit down for a chat right alongside a room where one of Dressel’s staffers was briefing a group of divers about to head out for the morning.

So, Armando, how long have you been working here?

Just a little over one year. I came from Switzerland – great diving there! (laughs) No, I was doing different work there.

What can you see when you go out on the reef here on an average day?

Well, apart from the many corals – elkhorn, fan coral, brain coral, and so forth – there are quite a few beautiful, colorful fish like blue tangs, damselfish, trumpetfish, yellowtail snapper, and parrotfish.  There are also giant marine turtles, manta and eagle rays, barracuda, and green moray eels – pretty big ones, as much as 10 feet long. That’s diving, but you can also see a lot of these same animals snorkeling when the water is clear – with a visibility of, say, 30 to 50 feet. It always depends on the day – there are days when you might spot three turtles, and if you’re very lucky, dolphins. Usually you see a good variety, our guests are satisfied.

What’s the most common creature you see around here?

I’d have to say the blue tang. There are a few common species but that’s the most common of all.

And the rarest?

Flying GurnardThe flying gurnard, a species which walks on the sea floor and also has large wings (right). It’s rare, and very odd-looking. In winter we also sometimes get sharks like the bull shark – also cat sharks and whale sharks. It’s awesome.

And which do your clients especially like?

They really love the giant turtles – and the sharks, of course, when we can see them.

What do you recall as your most surprising moment here so far?

It would have to be the first time I saw a bull shark.  It wasn’t yet the season, but suddenly not one but six bull sharks appeared – it was a beautiful surprise.

Finally, what do you like most about your job?

Well, living here in Playa del Carmen with the sun and the sea and being able to dive every single day is an absolute dream come true for me. Add to that the different people I get to meet every day, and it all makes this job very interesting and a real pleasure.

Photos | David Paul Appell & Beckmannjan

What to do in Mexico, Paraiso Maya

When I arrived last week at Iberostar’s Paraíso Maya resort as part of the travel blogger StarTrip extravaganza, I spotted a couple of familiar faces familiar from more than 25 years’ worth of visits to the Yucatan’s archaeological sites. Flanking the corridor from the front lobby to the spectacular pyramid bar is a pair of larger-than-life reclining figures with piercing stares (whether these guys are male or female isn’t obvious or certain, but that helmetlike headgear strikes me as more of a dude thing). They’re supersized versions of chac mools, statues I first gazed upon at the majestic inland Mayan site at Chichén Itzá, then in Mexico City’s glorious National Museum of Archaeology, as well as at sites and museums in Guatemala.

Maya God, Sacrificial Altar, or Both?

These enigmatic figures have been found in both Mayan and Aztec sites, and are attributed to the influence of the Toltecs, an earlier culture based around what is today the eastern central Mexican state of Hidalgo. But despite being common in some quarters, very little is really known for sure about chac mools (not to be confused, btw, with Chaac, the Mayan god of rain). The consensus seems to be that they were used as altars, with the bowls over their midsections once used to hold offerings to the gods (foods and/or very possibly human hearts cut from the chests of sacrificial victims, whether virgins or war prisoners or losers of the ballgames played at the nearby ball court). Even the name of the figure (Mayan for “great red jaguar”) was bestowed by 19th-century Frenchy-sounding-but-American explorer Augustus Le Plongeon. Regardless, this striking figure has always and not surprisingly made strong impressions on writers (like Carlos Fuentes) and artists (hola, Henry Moore!) through the ages.

Whatever the story with the chacmeister, there’s probably no more dramatic or recognizable icon of ancient Mesoamerican civilization, and so besides being an old buddy of mine from way back, he or she will continue to appeal to millions worldwide who like me are fascinated by the rich culture of ancient Mexico and Central America.