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When visiting Bulgaria’s capital city of Sofia, one of the many essential things to do is to visit the National Opera House. Standing in the heart of its historic quarter, the opera house is home to the Sofia Opera and Ballet Company, which puts up regular performances throughout the year. While the imposing building doesn’t look too welcoming from the outside, step in and you’ll be surprised to find a lavishly decorated theatre connected with twirling stairways, laid with red carpet, and lit up with shimmering chandeliers. Today, the building stands as a testament to decades of glorious opera history in Sofia, Bulgaria.

Opera has been a big part of the city since the founding of the first Bulgarian opera company in 1890. As the company evolved, so did the opera scene in Bulgaria. But the opera activity was ceased for a while during the 1944 bombing of Sofia and since then, it barely revived.

Boris Christoff, a pioneering figure in the world of opera in Bulgaria, brought it back to life. As a boy, he demonstrated amazing singing talent when he sang at the choir of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia. He continued to achieve success as a chorus soloist and soon attained a government grant to pursue his musical studies in Italy. Although he spent much of his musical career in Italy, he never forgot his hometown – he was ultimately buried at the cathedral where he sang as a boy in Sofia.

Today, Boris is still considered one of the greatest basses of all times and his achievements are still very much celebrated in Sofia. Each year, the Sofia Opera and Ballet Company co-organize the Boris Christoff International Competition for Young Opera Singers in a bid to draw a younger audience and to support upcoming singers. You can also watch regular opera and ballet concerts in the hall – if you’re a music fan, be sure to book your tickets for the program in advance.

Photo | Nellie Huang

Teatro Amazonas in Manaus Brazil

Every so often a movie comes along where its on-screen plot is overshadowed by the story of how the movie was made and the problems that had to be overcome to reach the final cut. The 1982 movie Fitzcarraldo, directed by Werner Herzog, is a prime example.

Amazon Theatre in Manaus

Using the Amazon Theatre in Manaus, Brazil, for part of the filming, Herzog tells the story of Brian Sweeney “Fitzcarraldo” Fitzgerald, an Irish entrepreneur who was trying to make money in the lucrative rubber plantation business. Fitzcarraldo has a soft spot for opera, and he has a dream to build an opera house deep in the Amazon jungle with the money he earns from his business exploits.

Filming of Fitzcarraldo

Scarcely has the making of a movie been more fraught with disasters. The film is based on the true life story of Carlos Fitzcarraldo, who managed to drag a 30-ton steamship across land from one river to another. Herzog aimed to reproduce this, but not to be outdone, his ship weighed 300 tonnes and he insisted that the colossal steamship really would be moved overland without any special effects using manpower alone.

His first lead actor Jason Robards contracted dysentery midway through filming and was ordered home by doctors, meaning that all his scenes had to be re-shot with his replacement, Klaus Kinski. Finding Kinski was certainly not the end of Herzog’s problems: The new lead proved to be a very fiery character, with constant battles with Herzog. By all accounts Kinski was so unpleasant to both the other cast members and the native population who worked as extras, that one of the local chiefs even offered to kill him on Herzog’s behalf.

Perhaps once again it’s a case of the blurred boundaries between real life and art. The real-life Fitzcarraldo 90 years earlier had been known as a fearsome character who terrorized local tribes and would give them the choice of working with him on his terms or being killed.

Visiting Manaus

Manaus is home to several grand buildings that date from the days of the rubber barons. Taking a walk from any hotel in Manaus to the city’s center, however, it is soon clear that no building compares to the magnificent opera house, which plays host to an annual film festival attracting visitors from around the world and is considered a must-see attraction on a visit to Manaus.

Photo | Pontanegra