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Not too many people know much about (or have even heard of) the tiny, 10-island West African country of Cape Verde (home to Iberostar Club Boa Vista, on Boavista island). But even though relatively few actually understood her song lyrics, plenty in Europe, Africa, and the rest of the world certainly knew and loved its most famous native daughter, a soulful singer whom we lost on December 17 at age 70.

Like one of my favorite U.S. jazz icons, Alberta Hunter, Cesária Évora started her career young and at one point left music, only to stage a spectacular comeback, in Évora’s case starting with a hit album in France, La diva aux pieds nus (“The Barefoot Diva”; she always sang barefoot because she said it was more comfortable). She won a Grammy nomination for 1995’s Cesária, and international fame didn’t lag far behind; her album Voz d’Amor (Voice of Love) later won her a world music Grammy in 2004. Évora’s health started declining in 2010, and in September 2011 she finally retired from her beloved music.

But the lady has left behind a gorgeous legacy of more than 20 studio, live, and remixed albums (including Club Sodade, a cool bunch of dance-club remix tracks), that have taught the world about Cape Verde’s distinctive national music, called morna. Like Portugal’s fado, it’s usually sung in a minor key and deals with loss, regret, and longing. As executed by Évora, it’s rich and jazzy, with lush arrangements and hints of blues and bossa nova. The language is crioulo, an Afro-Portuguese sprinkled with local African languages like Wolof and Fulani. Her success and the video below, one of her better-known songs, “Sodade” (“Longing”) prove that you don’t need to understand the words to be moved by the music and that evanescent voice. Still, for your delight, here are the simple yet powerful lyrics:

Quem mostra’ bo ess caminho longe?
Who will show you that long road?

Quem mostra’ bo ess caminho longe?
Who will show you that long road?

Ess caminho pa São Tomé
That road to São Tomé

Sodade sodade
The longing, the longing

Sodade
The longing

Dess nha terra São Nicolau
For this land of mine, São Nicolau

Si bo ‘screve me ’m ta ‘screve be
If you write to me I’ll write back to you

Si bo ‘squece me ’m ta ‘squece be
If you forget me I’ll forget you

Até dia qui bo voltà
Until the day you return

Sodade sodade
The longing, the longing

Sodade
The longing

Dess nha terra São Nicolau
For this land of mine, São Nicolau

Muito obrigado (thank you so much), Cesária. Today, December 20th, may be your funeral; but your music will always live in our hearts. Rest in peace.

Photo | Bruno Bollaert

Cape Verde

With huge swells, strong winds and an emerald coastline dotted with perfect surfing spots, Cape Verde is lauded by some as the hottest surfing destination. Located in the Atlantic Ocean, this archipelago of 10 islands is found just 350 miles off the coast of Western Africa, but it’s worlds apart. Featuring volcanic terrain and long, sweeping sandy beaches, the Cape Verde islands are blessed with tons of wind and undiscovered beaches.

Slowly gaining a reputation for its waves and wind, these islands finally got the attention they deserved after the launch of the annual Cabo Verde Wave Championships in 2007.  Having created rippling waves in the surf scene, the islands have their new ambassador to thank: Josh Angulo, a Hawaiian surfing champion who has introduced the world to Cape Verde.

It was Cape Verde’s raw beauty, winds and alluring ocean that brought him here. Since calling it home, Josh has played an integral role in promoting the destination via his worldwide connections with brands and media. He now runs the nation’s leading windsurfing center, Angulo Cabo Verde, which offers a variety of surfing lessons and stand up paddleboard (SUP) classes for people of all levels.

Surfing spots are scattered all over the islands. On the east coast of Sal, Sierra Negra offers some easy free-riding sessions far away from civilization. The Cabessa de Salinas (Kite Beach) provides powerful swells suitable for expert surfers, but it’s located just in front of a reef so be careful especially at low tide. On the west coast, swells can get dangerously huge – particularly at Ponta Preta and Ali Baba. In the south, the bay of Santa Maria has the safest spots for beginners: try Ponta Lema with the easiest wave.

Cool off from the adrenaline by exploring the islands’ attractions and cultural heritage: visit the salt flats of Pedra de Lume on the island of Sal, the old capital of Cidade Velha and Forte Real de São Filipe on Santiago, go whale-watching around Boa Vista and enjoy the pulsating nightlife of Mindelo on Sao Vicente.

If you’re looking for more adventure, there is a plethora of activities on offer, such as off-road buggy rides, quad bikes, sailing, scuba-diving and trekking along volcanic terrain.

Photo | IDS.photos